The Forgotten Flag

I have came across this flag in an empty airport in Garowe. Most Somali airports are very small and do not look like airports due to lack of facilities and paved roads but this one takes it one step further. By the looks of it, there is no way you could tell an airplane could land here. There are NO OFFICES or people to welcome you or collect taxes from you. I was informed, although can not confirm, that this airport is used by cargo planes only, although I might add that UN planes do land here as well. Because I was on a cargo plane when I landed here, I will go with the assumption that commercial planes do not use this runway. The airport is called Conoco Airport because as the the locals explained to me, the oil company Conoco established it and uses it for purpose of searching for oil, transportation's of equipment, etc.

Whatever the airport is, the flag really got to me because it is still beautiful despite being old and covered with plastic bag. It is amazing how you only need to look at the SKY to know what the Somali flag looks like.

Football teams

People love soccer here. Every empty area is filled with teams on Fridays. I am surprised to see these teams with uniforms because most of them can not afford it (Some football leagues are sponsored by organization or The Minister of Sports and they are given uniforms and shoes to play). Sports are excellent ways of getting people from competing clans/groups to come together and compete in a 'non-violent' setting. It also builds character and gives youth something to do (there are very few activities for children/youth to get involved in).

Lack of Roads

Much of Somalia does not have adequate roads. Most road look like this, they are unpaved. But these roads are better then other roads in small towns where it is really bumpy. In this picture, the people and the cars are sharing this narrow road. The funny thing is that this is considered a major road. You often see very narrow roads where 3 cars want to pass at the same time. It is extremely funny scene. I don’t know how they do it but people here drive and they do it relatively safe.

Minimal age for smoking?

This kid insisted I take his picture while he was smoking. Many young men think smoking is cool and sadly so many of them smoke. I think that at least 70% of Somali men and boy smoke (don't quote me on this...it is just based on the number of people I am coming across). It worries me because there are no cancer treatment facilities here and if anyone has cancer, there is no way of diagnosing it as cancer. They just say that person died and it was their time. Somalia needs major public awareness campaign against smoking. 

Eagle

I think this is an Eagle. I was surprised to see so many different types of birds here. Some of them are really gorgeous, exotic and endangered. You don't expect such beautiful birds in dry place like here (I did not capture the other birds, but they were exotic and colourful)

Prayer time

This picture is of the crew stopping to prey their Salat (Ismalic prayer). Sometimes it feels like prayer is only for men. Many women do not pray here. It is strange how some of them are covered from head to toe including their face yet they do not perform their Salat. For men and boys, they are expected to be in the Masjid or Mosques when it is prayer time and it is frowned upon if they do not. Women and girls on the other hand, are not expected to go to the Masque and in many cases there is no way of knowing if they are praying or not. Majority of women/girls that I have so far came across do not pray. 
I am not judging, just find it interesting!

O water where art thou

Water is a scarce resource in Somalia. This scarcity is not caused by lack of water in the country but rather lack of human resources (as well as machinery). It does not take much to dig a well but in many parts of the country, ordinary citizens find it difficult in doing so because most of the land is rocky and need machines to drill. There are many concerned citizens and/or organizations that have been digging wells for anyone to use, free of charge. You just need some sort of bucket to carry it, as this woman is doing . 

Tupac is back?

Doesn't this guy somehow look a little like 2Pac (in person he really does resemble him). My friend suggested that he might be 2Pac hiding in Somalia (lol).

Nomads and drought

These people are ex-pastoralist. Majority of the population in Somalia are nomadic pastoralist.However there has been severe droughts in the 1990's that have wiped-out many livestock of the nomads thus resulting in the displacement of many pastoralists. Also this is the 5th year in a row where Somalia, and other parts of East Africa, is suffering from severe drought. I worry about the nomads in Somalia because their way of life is going to be extinct if this trend continues.

Weird Crab

This crab was ready to attack me. I came close to it because I thought it might be dead due to its pale complexion (the other craps I saw were livelier looking). My life was endangered that day-the nightmares it caused me are unspeakable (I am being dramatic, but it really came close to my messing up my face).

Poor goat didn't stand a chance and neither did my vegetarian ways

We bought this goat for about $85. I didn't like how we had to tie him to our pickup truck but I guess it doesn't matter since it was going to be eaten anyhow. Prior to coming to Somalia I was a vegetarian...well actually I ate seafood but I did not eat chicken or red meat for almost a decade. There isn't a political reason for it, I just do not like how we treat and feed the animals we raise for food in Canada. I thought I would still be a vegetarian (who occasionally eats seafood) while in Somalia but that notion was out of the door as soon as I got here. Meat is a major component of the diet here and vegetables are not readily accessible in many parts of the country.  

Dead Cat

A dead cat in the beaches of Bender Beyla. I wanted to bury it but was told it is not hygienic. Also we were in a short timeline to complete the tsunami scan of the communities affected by the 2014 Tsunami.

Tree=homes

These traditional Somali homes might seem ugly and simple to construct (which they really are). By looking at them you would think they are good for the environment. However, they are not because they require a lot of trees to build them. We do not have that many trees to spare but we have soooo many rocks and mountains made from rocks that people should build their homes from them(believe me when you come here you are going to get so sick of rocks. I don't think I could handle seeing any more rocks). Let's try to leave the little trees we have alone so that perhaps certain places in the country might become cooler and rain more often. I recognize that it is cheaper to build these traditional homes rather then homes made from rocks but these homes are not sustainable. I really do not know how we got this far making homes from tree which we do not have!

Hooray for the Highway

Welcome to the only highway in Somalia aka trans-Somalia Highway. I feel good that we at-least have some means of transportation. It is really the only way that different regions are able to exchange goods/services and get involved in trade. Otherwise many companies and economic activities would not exists today without this highway. 

Green

I get so happy to see green areas because most of northern Somalia is a semi-desert. However, you tend to see some areas that are very green such as this one.

Las Qoray

This picture was taken in Las Qoray. It is soo beautiful. I want to like living here. The water is so clear and it is so beautiful (I think I already said that). The only downside is that it is hod because it is by the red sea. 

Whey are you taking pictures of my camels?

Postural family coming to see why we were taking picture of their camels. People do not like us taking their pictures. I do not blame them, I would like like anyone taking my picture either.

Could it be RAIN???

Tornado! Actually it is not a tornado but more like rain clouds. I was sooo exited to see it because I though it might rain; rain is a BIG deal here. Fortunately it didn't rain in the area I was at but it did rain in a nearby village. Bummer!

Nice Wiring Job

The wiring system here is Horrible. Telephone companies are in fierce competition to have the most customers. Instead of working out some sort of plan or compromise, each company installs its own wires thus creating chaos in the streets. Did you know that if you are with one Telephone Company, you can not call the other. Most of the people I work with have Golis (popular company in Bosaso) and I have STG (Somali Telecom Group, very new to Bosaso but popular in other regions). This causes major inconvenience to all of us because I can't call them and they can not call me. I asked one guys who works in STG why this is happening and he told me that there is lack of trust between companies and because there is not strong government that could enforce things, they are able to get away with it and do what is in their best interest. This is great from a business point of view but stinks for the rest of us...time for someone to start a consumer protection agency.

Public Transportation

This is the Bosaso version of the TTC (lol). On a serious note, this is the public transit. It is a small bus and it gets passengers around the city. At first look they all look the same to me and I was wondering how people know which bus goes where. It then made sense to me because they all have a number after the letter BL and Bsomething. That is how you know which is which. I think that this is marvellous for people to achieve this because they are doing it without a government. I think it is great that these business men are organizing themselves and getting people where they need to be. The cost to ride this is 2,000s.Sh. (Or about 13 cents; 15,000s.Sh =$1US-the exchange rate is awful). I actually rode one of these and it was not that bad. I enjoyed it. I know I sound like a weirdo but everything fascinates.

High on life or drugs??

This goat is just wondering around the street. There are so many goats walking around. No one eats these goats because they eat everything they find on the street. In another word, they are sick and possibly carrying diseases. I ask if we could just humanly kill them or take them out of the city so they can be rehabilitated and I was told their owners would not approve. It doesn't make sense that you would not eat these goats but at the same time you wouldn't do anything to get rid off them or help them. Some of these goats are in a lot of pain. They eat everything and they become sick. They even cough like humans (very bizarre). The sad part is that many of these goats stay up during the night because they chew Jad (Mira). They eat the jad's roots that the people throw away after eating it thinking it is plants. Half of the time they walk around high. 

Shells

MY shells!! I collected them during my time here. The small ones are from Bosaso, the Red Sea and the big ones are from Bender Beyla, the Indian Ocean. They are so many shells here and there are sooooo beautiful. People here don't care for them because they are everywhere. They could make a business from selling these shells and turn them into jewelry. If only I had some money and time...hmmm

I hate these rocks

There are so many rocks in the cities. Here in this street (yes, these are our streets), you see so many rocks. I was shocked when I first came here and saw so many of them. I kept asking why people don't remove them. They all laughed at me because these rocks are precious to the owners because they are being used to build a house. I do not understand why they have to bring all of these rocks in the middle of the street months before the construction of the house starts. It is making the city look bad.

Lets play Soccer

This is a football stadium. The land is dedicated for teams to play football/soccer. When you first look at it, it is just an area filled with sand but when you take a closer look you see so much more. This stadium is a place where kids come every day between 4-6pm. It is place where youth (only male) could enjoy themselves in a recreation center—there are not many places that youth could go and “hang-out”. This is due to lack of funds to establish such recreation spaces where youth could enjoy them selves and be among other youth.

This is how some of the kids study

These kids are doing their homework in front of their house because their family can not afford to have electricity in the home. It is amazing to see how some of the students in Somalia are so eager for education. They are hungry for knowledge. It really makes you appreciate what you have. We Somalis in the Diaspora are so lucky yet many of us do not take advantage of the affordable education we have in the West. Being here really made me see the so many things that we take for granted. There are so many kids here who are maximizing the little opportunity they are able to attain. The picture is blurry, sorry!

Goat birth

A goat that just gave birth. Sorry for the blood works but I thought it is cool because the lamp just walked as soon as it was out (amazing considering it takes us almost 2 years to do the same). I feel like I am invading the privacy of this goat!

Camels

There are so many camels in Somalia. It is the most beloved animal here and they are very expensive. Each one of them costs over $300US. I met a man who had to give up 100 of them because he accidentally killed another man during an argument (talk about anger management issues). This came to around $30,000 (enough to pay back my student loan).

WWII Submarine

Me along with 3 other men hiking through mountains along the shoreline (very beautiful shoreline if I may add), and other unpleasant roads for 8 hours to get to this site. It is basically a submarine ship that was owned by the Germans but destroyed by the British during the last months of WWII. The Germans came to help their friends a.k.a. the Italians. Anyways, all the men in town said I couldn't do it cause I am a girl. But I did it and they were all SHOCKED. They send an army to find me cause we took longer then we anticipated. lol

New home

This traditional Somali home was build by a family after the Tsunami destroyed their home. 
Bender Beyla

Bender Beyla - Tsunami damage

This is another boat that was destroyed by the Tsunami. There were little kids that were using it as a toy house. They seemed to be happy unlike the owner who is unemployed and can no longer earn a living as a fisherman. 

Tsunami damage

Boats that were partially damaged by the Tsunami. Bender Beyla

Bender Beyla

This is a picture of Bender Beyla, one of the town most affected by the Tsunami. I absolutely enjoy being here cause you have the ocean, mountains and beautiful weather (unlike Bososo which is 40+ all the time-lord I don't think any place could get hotter then there). Although there is not much talk about assisting those individuals that were affected by the Tsunami in Africa, there are funds allocated to Beyla and other towns of the coasts. Most of the work is starting to take shape now. Most of the projects that will take place include rebuilding homes and getting the fishermen new equipments (since most of them lost all of their equipments in the sea). There are also other projects being done such as road constructions. WFP also operates there (actually it no longer does because the foods for those people are being withheld by Pirates-shame on them)

Hindigale

This man on the horse came especially to greet us (ie, the team that was evaluating the relief program). I though that it was really hospitable of him. The village is called Hindigale and the people were really nice to us.

Women Interviews

Women also waiting for us to interview. They are also ex-pastoralist. The interesting factor is that the majority of them are either divorced or widowed. I though that divorce was something that happened to the Somalis in the Diaspora but unfortunately it is becoming a common practice here as well. We are losing our culture really fast.

Men Interviews

Men waiting for us to interview them. Most of them are ex-pastoralist/nomads who have lost everything due to the drought. Pastoralism is really vulnerable occupation because you rely so much on the environment which you do not have real control over. If your animals die then basically you go with them.

CLAN/TRIBE

This is a touchy subject but it is something that must be tackled. It is extremely unavoidable to discuss clan in Somalia. It is part of everyday life and it is used differently by different groups.

In Somalia you see how negatively clan has been used. People used it to cause harm to one another. If you want to get rid-off someone and they are in a place where they are minority clan, you could point to everyone who they are and before you know it they are leaving the city and going to another city where their clan is the majority (this is an extreme case but it can happen and I am SURE it did happened before).

Anyways, the people that use clan for the right reasons are the nomads (nomadism is actually endangered but this is another topic). If you are in a minority clan and you come to a nomadic household, they will welcome you and treat you better then their children or their clansmen because you are a guest and far from your own clan. Today, if you come to a city that doesn’t belong to your clan, you will not be welcomed, but be treated quite the opposite although no one will come to you directly and make you feel uncomfortable.

Another way the nomads use tribe positively or the way it is suppose to be used, is that if your clan lives with them but you are a minority they offer you their protection. They usually adopt minority groups into their tribe so that no one can mess with them. This has great implications. For example, here in Somalia, someone will think twice before they try to kill me because I have a clan. Why is this important? Well if I have a clan they will avenge my death and make sure that my killer is brought into justice (basically killed unless they pay an amount my family states). This is the main reason why I am able to freely walk around the streets of Bososo and a foreigner can not. It is easier to kill a foreigner then a Somali because there is no government to hold you accountable and no clan to offer them protection.

Another positive aspect of clan is that it gives you a protection. As some of you know, if you don’t have a clan basically you can not call yourself a Somali. Your clan makes you a Somali and distinct from other nationality. Right now, if someone wants to find me, it will take them a very long time if they don’t know my clan. But if they know my clan and my sub-clan, they can easily within about an hour or so find out where I am exactly (I am not sure if this is a good or bad things yet, I like some privacy you know).

In addition, although many people claim that the civil war in Somalia was about clan, in reality, it had nothing to do with clan. Clan was the mobilizing factor used to get people’s blood boiling. The real issue was about power. Few men wanted to get on the seat from the time of independence but were not given the chance. Clan was not really a factor. But because the majority of the populations were uneducated and vulnerable to external influence, they were easily led to believe that the warlords were acting on the interest of their clan. Clan wars did occur even before independence but it never got out of hand. The elders from each clan resolved the issue after some time of fighting. In a matter of a year or so, the two clans were back to friendly relation and they grazed their animals in the same lands. IT IS EXTREMELY SICK HOW TODAY BLOOD IS SHED IN THE NAME OF CLAN.

How I am holding on thus far?

I AM STILL ALIVE!! On a serious note, for those of you who are interested, I am doing fine. I am currently based in Badhan, Sanaag region. It is really nice here. A small town but nice. It is soo nice here (in terms of weather conditions). I could actually breathe here. My brain is able to function better because it is not being attacked by the HEAT (BOSOSO is really hell, if you want to have a little idea of what hell looks like, go to BOSOSO).

On the other hand, I am getting a little tired of getting water from the barakat. Our house doesn’t have running water but it is fine. I am getting used to it and I like the experience of getting my own water. The people here are nice. They are welcoming and they know how to mind their business.

The food here is a bit problematic because you can’t find everything you need. As some of you are aware, all of northern Somali is basically a desert. Most of the fruits and vegetables come from either Ethiopia (for Somaliland) or Southern Somalia (for Puntland). There are some people who farm here (although most people are either nomads or city folks), but it is more expensive and hard to find good quality and quantity. This doesn’t mean that nothing is grown here but it is just that the weather and soil conditions are making it impossible. You could actually pant a lot variety of vegetable and fruits if you had good irrigation system, which Somalia doesn’t (this will requires a lot of money and government advocacy)

Other then that, things are A-OK. To clarify few things, there are no mosquitoes in the place I am at, no I am not sick nor did I catch some disease, yes there are flies buzzing around, no I am not MARRIED, yes there are snakes and lizards around, no I don’t own an AK-47, and yes I am enjoying my self. Somalia is not as bad as some of you seem to indicate.

Sanaag

A women peeking from her home. This is pretty much how houses in Somali look like. They are all build from bricks and in my eyes, they add to the heat that is already killing me. You tend to feel hotter when you see them. ~Sigh~

Nice macamus

Men on top of a truck in front of out car. I just thought it is funny how their MACAMUS was flying around. At least they are getting some fresh air and they have a nice view. It is not all fun and games from them, they seem to be holding something down. 

Houses for sale

These houses, as some of you might be familiar with them, are build for Somalis in the Diaspora. I think that the cost of them is something like $16,000US, really cheap when you compare them to their size.

I am rich-NOW!

All of this money actually comes to around $40US. The inflation rate is ridiculously high. A bottle of coke cost around 10,000 Somali Shilings. This is due to lack of government and the fact that Somalia imports just about everything because educated Somalis, who could impact the country greatly, have left the country. VERY SAD INDEED.

All natural

This is me in Ceelbuug. I wear no makeup, no nothing. I feel great about it. There is nothing for me to confirm to. My face feels free. I do not think I ever went to go back to life in Toronto were you got to worry about what you wear and being part of the fashion scene (not that I am totally into fashion). It is really stupid how young ladies in the west put so much emphasis on their hair and makeup. It is a very superficial lifestyle and I am over it.

Newlywed home :)

A newly-wed home. This house was created for 2 young nomads that were getting married. At the time of this picture, they have not moved in yet. As you can see this is a BIG house and it is really beautiful, especially inside. An interesting fact about such homes is that they are destroyed after about 2 months, when it is confirmed that the women is pregnant. During this time, they disassemble the house and the woman builds a smaller ones. At the same time, the man goes and herds the animals and makes sure there is enough food, i.e., goats, camels, etc, for his new family.

Beautiful Young Lady

This young lady is amazing. She was the only one who had the guts to pose for picture. Yes, girls here are thought to wear a JALABIB at a very young age. The sad part is that they are just told to do it and they don't do it for God. A lot of them do not even get the proper religious education required of them.

Ceelbuug

Kids going about their daily lives in Ceelbuug.

Eww Lizards

There are so many different types of lizards in our backyard and probably in everyone's home. My security guard, driver and co-workers make fun of me because I scream every time I see a lizard or an insect. (They are really scary when you are not used to them being around your home)

Cute Kids

More kids that I met. They seem to enjoy me taking their pictures.

Girl Power

Girls in this country are very shy. I find it difficult to interview them because they do not give their opinions. They talk when we are just having girl conversation but when it comes to documenting the work, they are shy and not want to give their opinions. The boys on the other hand are not afraid to give their opinions or have their pictures taken. I think this is due to the work because Somali girls are not afraid to be heard. 

More work

More pictures of me interviewing recipients of Cash For Work program. Some of these people are going through difficult times and I wish there was more people helping them. 

Work

This is me, in the brown, interviewing the local population. I was going around villages for the purpose of evaluating programs that are carried out by HR (this is one reason why I couldn't return any emails nor update this blog). Some of the stories that these ladies told me were heart breaking. The majority of these people are ex-pastoralists who have lost all of their animals and belongings due to the drought that want on for 4 years in Sanaag region. 

Future leaders

Take a look at the future leaders of this country. These kids are really bright and wise beyond their years. I sometimes pity them because they do not have the support needed to go after their dreams and reach their potential. Clearly, my pity is not going help them and they do not really need it. They are cute kids and I want to kidnap them :)

Guns and safety

There are a lot of guns in Somalia. However, you don’t really see them everywhere. So far, the only people with guys are security guards (those that guard houses/offices and those that guard individuals). I am surrounded by guys everywhere I go because I have to have security guards with me. This is because the NGO I work with has a lot of international staff that do not have the protection of a clan. Therefore, they need to be guarded 24/7. However, normal people on the streets do not walk around with guns. This does not mean that they don’t have one (they do trust me) but the idea is that if they want peace they must show they are willing to let go of their guns or at leas make it less visible.

I still can’t believe how safe this country is. When I am in Bososo, I walk around freely without anyone. No one bothers me or harasses me (except for those individuals that have nothing better to do with their time but to keep telling me to put my gabasar (cloth) over my head—THEY REALLY NEED TO GET A LIFE OF THEIR OWN).

One funny thing about guns is that you tend to be scared of them the first couple times you see them. But after some time they become normal to you. I never thought that I would actually have the courage to touch a gun after what it did to my people. During my first 3 weeks in Somalia, I was extremely against the idea of having a gun near me but after awhile, especially during the last week or so, I just can’t stay away from them. There is something about them that draws you near them. I just can’t explain it but it is an experience I am not willing to repeat. 

Someone once told me that “Smart people make Guns. Stupid people use them”. Although this makes slight sense to me now, I think stupid people make guns and stupider people use them. 

Weapon Of Choice

AK-47. This is Somali's favorite gun. I once asked a guard if he is willing to give-up his gun for $100US. He laughed at me because a) an AK-47 cost over $300US and b) if he gives up his gun, who would guarantee someone else with a gun isn't going to rob or kill him. 

LasQoray beach

This picture was taken in an inhibited area near LasQoray, Sanaag. Somali has really beautiful beaches. I think that who ever comes here with a little money and opens some sort of tourist resort by the beach would make a lot of $$$$. The water in this beach is very salty and very clean (Bososo beaches are not that clean; people throw their garbage there).