This man on the horse came especially to greet us (ie, the team that was evaluating the relief program). I though that it was really hospitable of him. The village is called Hindigale and the people were really nice to us.
Thursday, July 14, 2005
Hindigale
This man on the horse came especially to greet us (ie, the team that was evaluating the relief program). I though that it was really hospitable of him. The village is called Hindigale and the people were really nice to us.
Women Interviews
Women also waiting for us to interview. They are also ex-pastoralist. The interesting factor is that the majority of them are either divorced or widowed. I though that divorce was something that happened to the Somalis in the Diaspora but unfortunately it is becoming a common practice here as well. We are losing our culture really fast.
Men Interviews
Men waiting for us to interview them. Most of them are ex-pastoralist/nomads who have lost everything due to the drought. Pastoralism is really vulnerable occupation because you rely so much on the environment which you do not have real control over. If your animals die then basically you go with them.
CLAN/TRIBE
This is a touchy subject but it is something that must be tackled. It is extremely unavoidable to discuss clan in Somalia. It is part of everyday life and it is used differently by different groups.
In Somalia you see how negatively clan has been used. People used it to cause harm to one another. If you want to get rid-off someone and they are in a place where they are minority clan, you could point to everyone who they are and before you know it they are leaving the city and going to another city where their clan is the majority (this is an extreme case but it can happen and I am SURE it did happened before).
Anyways, the people that use clan for the right reasons are the nomads (nomadism is actually endangered but this is another topic). If you are in a minority clan and you come to a nomadic household, they will welcome you and treat you better then their children or their clansmen because you are a guest and far from your own clan. Today, if you come to a city that doesn’t belong to your clan, you will not be welcomed, but be treated quite the opposite although no one will come to you directly and make you feel uncomfortable.
Another way the nomads use tribe positively or the way it is suppose to be used, is that if your clan lives with them but you are a minority they offer you their protection. They usually adopt minority groups into their tribe so that no one can mess with them. This has great implications. For example, here in Somalia, someone will think twice before they try to kill me because I have a clan. Why is this important? Well if I have a clan they will avenge my death and make sure that my killer is brought into justice (basically killed unless they pay an amount my family states). This is the main reason why I am able to freely walk around the streets of Bososo and a foreigner can not. It is easier to kill a foreigner then a Somali because there is no government to hold you accountable and no clan to offer them protection.
Another positive aspect of clan is that it gives you a protection. As some of you know, if you don’t have a clan basically you can not call yourself a Somali. Your clan makes you a Somali and distinct from other nationality. Right now, if someone wants to find me, it will take them a very long time if they don’t know my clan. But if they know my clan and my sub-clan, they can easily within about an hour or so find out where I am exactly (I am not sure if this is a good or bad things yet, I like some privacy you know).
In addition, although many people claim that the civil war in Somalia was about clan, in reality, it had nothing to do with clan. Clan was the mobilizing factor used to get people’s blood boiling. The real issue was about power. Few men wanted to get on the seat from the time of independence but were not given the chance. Clan was not really a factor. But because the majority of the populations were uneducated and vulnerable to external influence, they were easily led to believe that the warlords were acting on the interest of their clan. Clan wars did occur even before independence but it never got out of hand. The elders from each clan resolved the issue after some time of fighting. In a matter of a year or so, the two clans were back to friendly relation and they grazed their animals in the same lands. IT IS EXTREMELY SICK HOW TODAY BLOOD IS SHED IN THE NAME OF CLAN.
In Somalia you see how negatively clan has been used. People used it to cause harm to one another. If you want to get rid-off someone and they are in a place where they are minority clan, you could point to everyone who they are and before you know it they are leaving the city and going to another city where their clan is the majority (this is an extreme case but it can happen and I am SURE it did happened before).
Anyways, the people that use clan for the right reasons are the nomads (nomadism is actually endangered but this is another topic). If you are in a minority clan and you come to a nomadic household, they will welcome you and treat you better then their children or their clansmen because you are a guest and far from your own clan. Today, if you come to a city that doesn’t belong to your clan, you will not be welcomed, but be treated quite the opposite although no one will come to you directly and make you feel uncomfortable.
Another way the nomads use tribe positively or the way it is suppose to be used, is that if your clan lives with them but you are a minority they offer you their protection. They usually adopt minority groups into their tribe so that no one can mess with them. This has great implications. For example, here in Somalia, someone will think twice before they try to kill me because I have a clan. Why is this important? Well if I have a clan they will avenge my death and make sure that my killer is brought into justice (basically killed unless they pay an amount my family states). This is the main reason why I am able to freely walk around the streets of Bososo and a foreigner can not. It is easier to kill a foreigner then a Somali because there is no government to hold you accountable and no clan to offer them protection.
Another positive aspect of clan is that it gives you a protection. As some of you know, if you don’t have a clan basically you can not call yourself a Somali. Your clan makes you a Somali and distinct from other nationality. Right now, if someone wants to find me, it will take them a very long time if they don’t know my clan. But if they know my clan and my sub-clan, they can easily within about an hour or so find out where I am exactly (I am not sure if this is a good or bad things yet, I like some privacy you know).
In addition, although many people claim that the civil war in Somalia was about clan, in reality, it had nothing to do with clan. Clan was the mobilizing factor used to get people’s blood boiling. The real issue was about power. Few men wanted to get on the seat from the time of independence but were not given the chance. Clan was not really a factor. But because the majority of the populations were uneducated and vulnerable to external influence, they were easily led to believe that the warlords were acting on the interest of their clan. Clan wars did occur even before independence but it never got out of hand. The elders from each clan resolved the issue after some time of fighting. In a matter of a year or so, the two clans were back to friendly relation and they grazed their animals in the same lands. IT IS EXTREMELY SICK HOW TODAY BLOOD IS SHED IN THE NAME OF CLAN.
How I am holding on thus far?
I AM STILL ALIVE!! On a serious note, for those of you who are interested, I am doing fine. I am currently based in Badhan, Sanaag region. It is really nice here. A small town but nice. It is soo nice here (in terms of weather conditions). I could actually breathe here. My brain is able to function better because it is not being attacked by the HEAT (BOSOSO is really hell, if you want to have a little idea of what hell looks like, go to BOSOSO).
On the other hand, I am getting a little tired of getting water from the barakat. Our house doesn’t have running water but it is fine. I am getting used to it and I like the experience of getting my own water. The people here are nice. They are welcoming and they know how to mind their business.
The food here is a bit problematic because you can’t find everything you need. As some of you are aware, all of northern Somali is basically a desert. Most of the fruits and vegetables come from either Ethiopia (for Somaliland) or Southern Somalia (for Puntland). There are some people who farm here (although most people are either nomads or city folks), but it is more expensive and hard to find good quality and quantity. This doesn’t mean that nothing is grown here but it is just that the weather and soil conditions are making it impossible. You could actually pant a lot variety of vegetable and fruits if you had good irrigation system, which Somalia doesn’t (this will requires a lot of money and government advocacy)
Other then that, things are A-OK. To clarify few things, there are no mosquitoes in the place I am at, no I am not sick nor did I catch some disease, yes there are flies buzzing around, no I am not MARRIED, yes there are snakes and lizards around, no I don’t own an AK-47, and yes I am enjoying my self. Somalia is not as bad as some of you seem to indicate.
On the other hand, I am getting a little tired of getting water from the barakat. Our house doesn’t have running water but it is fine. I am getting used to it and I like the experience of getting my own water. The people here are nice. They are welcoming and they know how to mind their business.
The food here is a bit problematic because you can’t find everything you need. As some of you are aware, all of northern Somali is basically a desert. Most of the fruits and vegetables come from either Ethiopia (for Somaliland) or Southern Somalia (for Puntland). There are some people who farm here (although most people are either nomads or city folks), but it is more expensive and hard to find good quality and quantity. This doesn’t mean that nothing is grown here but it is just that the weather and soil conditions are making it impossible. You could actually pant a lot variety of vegetable and fruits if you had good irrigation system, which Somalia doesn’t (this will requires a lot of money and government advocacy)
Other then that, things are A-OK. To clarify few things, there are no mosquitoes in the place I am at, no I am not sick nor did I catch some disease, yes there are flies buzzing around, no I am not MARRIED, yes there are snakes and lizards around, no I don’t own an AK-47, and yes I am enjoying my self. Somalia is not as bad as some of you seem to indicate.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Sanaag
A women peeking from her home. This is pretty much how houses in Somali look like. They are all build from bricks and in my eyes, they add to the heat that is already killing me. You tend to feel hotter when you see them. ~Sigh~
Nice macamus
Men on top of a truck in front of out car. I just thought it is funny how their MACAMUS was flying around. At least they are getting some fresh air and they have a nice view. It is not all fun and games from them, they seem to be holding something down.
Houses for sale
These houses, as some of you might be familiar with them, are build for Somalis in the Diaspora. I think that the cost of them is something like $16,000US, really cheap when you compare them to their size.
I am rich-NOW!
All of this money actually comes to around $40US. The inflation rate is ridiculously high. A bottle of coke cost around 10,000 Somali Shilings. This is due to lack of government and the fact that Somalia imports just about everything because educated Somalis, who could impact the country greatly, have left the country. VERY SAD INDEED.
All natural
This is me in Ceelbuug. I wear no makeup, no nothing. I feel great about it. There is nothing for me to confirm to. My face feels free. I do not think I ever went to go back to life in Toronto were you got to worry about what you wear and being part of the fashion scene (not that I am totally into fashion). It is really stupid how young ladies in the west put so much emphasis on their hair and makeup. It is a very superficial lifestyle and I am over it.
Newlywed home :)
A newly-wed home. This house was created for 2 young nomads that were getting married. At the time of this picture, they have not moved in yet. As you can see this is a BIG house and it is really beautiful, especially inside. An interesting fact about such homes is that they are destroyed after about 2 months, when it is confirmed that the women is pregnant. During this time, they disassemble the house and the woman builds a smaller ones. At the same time, the man goes and herds the animals and makes sure there is enough food, i.e., goats, camels, etc, for his new family.
Beautiful Young Lady
This young lady is amazing. She was the only one who had the guts to pose for picture. Yes, girls here are thought to wear a JALABIB at a very young age. The sad part is that they are just told to do it and they don't do it for God. A lot of them do not even get the proper religious education required of them.
Eww Lizards
There are so many different types of lizards in our backyard and probably in everyone's home. My security guard, driver and co-workers make fun of me because I scream every time I see a lizard or an insect. (They are really scary when you are not used to them being around your home)
Girl Power
Girls in this country are very shy. I find it difficult to interview them because they do not give their opinions. They talk when we are just having girl conversation but when it comes to documenting the work, they are shy and not want to give their opinions. The boys on the other hand are not afraid to give their opinions or have their pictures taken. I think this is due to the work because Somali girls are not afraid to be heard.
More work
More pictures of me interviewing recipients of Cash For Work program. Some of these people are going through difficult times and I wish there was more people helping them.
Work
This is me, in the brown, interviewing the local population. I was going around villages for the purpose of evaluating programs that are carried out by HR (this is one reason why I couldn't return any emails nor update this blog). Some of the stories that these ladies told me were heart breaking. The majority of these people are ex-pastoralists who have lost all of their animals and belongings due to the drought that want on for 4 years in Sanaag region.
Future leaders
Take a look at the future leaders of this country. These kids are really bright and wise beyond their years. I sometimes pity them because they do not have the support needed to go after their dreams and reach their potential. Clearly, my pity is not going help them and they do not really need it. They are cute kids and I want to kidnap them :)
Guns and safety
There are a lot of guns in Somalia. However, you don’t really see them everywhere. So far, the only people with guys are security guards (those that guard houses/offices and those that guard individuals). I am surrounded by guys everywhere I go because I have to have security guards with me. This is because the NGO I work with has a lot of international staff that do not have the protection of a clan. Therefore, they need to be guarded 24/7. However, normal people on the streets do not walk around with guns. This does not mean that they don’t have one (they do trust me) but the idea is that if they want peace they must show they are willing to let go of their guns or at leas make it less visible.
I still can’t believe how safe this country is. When I am in Bososo, I walk around freely without anyone. No one bothers me or harasses me (except for those individuals that have nothing better to do with their time but to keep telling me to put my gabasar (cloth) over my head—THEY REALLY NEED TO GET A LIFE OF THEIR OWN).
One funny thing about guns is that you tend to be scared of them the first couple times you see them. But after some time they become normal to you. I never thought that I would actually have the courage to touch a gun after what it did to my people. During my first 3 weeks in Somalia, I was extremely against the idea of having a gun near me but after awhile, especially during the last week or so, I just can’t stay away from them. There is something about them that draws you near them. I just can’t explain it but it is an experience I am not willing to repeat.
Someone once told me that “Smart people make Guns. Stupid people use them”. Although this makes slight sense to me now, I think stupid people make guns and stupider people use them.
I still can’t believe how safe this country is. When I am in Bososo, I walk around freely without anyone. No one bothers me or harasses me (except for those individuals that have nothing better to do with their time but to keep telling me to put my gabasar (cloth) over my head—THEY REALLY NEED TO GET A LIFE OF THEIR OWN).
One funny thing about guns is that you tend to be scared of them the first couple times you see them. But after some time they become normal to you. I never thought that I would actually have the courage to touch a gun after what it did to my people. During my first 3 weeks in Somalia, I was extremely against the idea of having a gun near me but after awhile, especially during the last week or so, I just can’t stay away from them. There is something about them that draws you near them. I just can’t explain it but it is an experience I am not willing to repeat.
Someone once told me that “Smart people make Guns. Stupid people use them”. Although this makes slight sense to me now, I think stupid people make guns and stupider people use them.
Weapon Of Choice
AK-47. This is Somali's favorite gun. I once asked a guard if he is willing to give-up his gun for $100US. He laughed at me because a) an AK-47 cost over $300US and b) if he gives up his gun, who would guarantee someone else with a gun isn't going to rob or kill him.
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